The Best Tool Kit for Homeowners
Most home owners and flat dwellers own tools, if only a hammer for hanging pictures or a drill and screwdriver for mounting a towel rail. But these few implements, however useful they are, hardly comprise a comprehensive tool kit for home repair and improvement.
On the other hand, there is hardly any project, not even the erection of an entire house, that needs every tool that can be found in a hardware shop. Many of the items sold there are for rarely encountered contingencies; others may be gadgets of dubious value.
Ready Made Tool Sets for Homeowners
There are many “off the peg” tool kits available, from the very basic screwdriver set to the more specialized. Some are suitable for very occasional use, while others will withstand regular use to varying degrees. This tool set based on the Black and Decker cordless drill is very popular.
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Review of the WORKPRO W009037A Chrome-Vanadium Steel 322-Piece Tool Kit With Carry Bag
For over 25 years the WORKPRO Company has specialized in quality tools and accessories, and they are now one of the largest tool manufacturers and suppliers on the Asian continent. Although they make and supply a wide variety of tool kits for professionals and homeowners alike, their newest offering—a 322 Piece Tool Kit with Carry Bag—is one of their most comprehensive packages to date.
What Is Inside?
Inside the WORKPRO 322 piece tool kit, purchasers will find a wide variety of tools that are excellent for those projects in and around the house. All of the tools feature a body made from the strongest chrome-vanadium steel, which guarantees torque, strength and reliability through the years. The colorful-handled tools (red and blue) are very easy to spot, and the comfort grips allow users to work with these tools comfortably for hours on end.
The all-encompassing tool kit includes all of the following:
A Comprehensive Socket Set
The WORKPRO socket set includes all the useful sizes, including both deep and standard sockets, and an extra strong socket wrench that can reach into even the most hardest to reach places. A full set of vividly marked SAE and metric sockets is included, with the SAE sockets having blue marks and the metric sockets being marked in red.
Pliers
Three pairs of pliers, each of different sizes, are also included in the WORKPRO 322 piece kit. All have heat-treated and very sturdy jaws. And the nickel plating helps protect the metal from rust and corrosion. The ergonomically-designed handles on the pliers provide a slip-resistant grip on even the hottest days, and the chrome-vanadium coating gives them an extra durable cutting edge.
Screwdrivers
In total, there are 13 screwdrivers in the WORKPRO tool kit, including 7 slotted screwdrivers and 6 Phillip’s Head screwdrivers of different sizes and lengths. All are very easy to use thanks to the same comfortable grip found on each tool in the set.
Level
The “plastic torpedo” level in the WORKPRO tool kit has highly visible vials for reading 45, 90 and 180 degree levels, and a strong magnetic base for ease of use.
Hammer
The strong, 16 ounce claw hammer in the kit is made from the most durable drop-forged carbon steel. It also boasts a heat-treated and polished striking head surface.Other tools included in the WORKPRO 322-piece tool kit include a handy utility knife for making straight cuts on a variety of materials; a 25-foot (7-meter) tape measure with a snap back function; a useful hex key wrench set with all the standard sizes; an adjustable or crescent wrench for those hard-to-turn nuts and bolts; a durable pair of scissors; and more.
Who Can Benefit from the WORKPRO 322-Piece Tool Kit?
Although not exactly intended for heavy commercial use, this entry-level tool kit would make a great gift for the do-it-yourself handyman and for anyone looking to tackle a few basic projects around the house. Even shade-tree mechanics would appreciate a tool set such as this, especially the socket set, which boasts a huge variety of 6 point vs 12 point sockets including SAE and metric sizes.
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This article offers a guide to the items that make up a reasonably comprehensive, truly versatile tool kit for the home. The tools are presented in categories, that is: those for measuring are in one group, those for cutting in another, and so on.
The guide describes the features and the uses of each tool, and explains how to tell quality tools from inferior ones, for example, how to distinguish a hammer designed to drive nails straight and true from one that is likely to bend them. It also recommends which of the varieties of a particular tool you should own, how coarse a file, how many screwdrivers of what sizes, how long a saw, and gives maintenance pointers for tools that require them. Where we have reviewed such tools, a link is provided to see those reviews.
The business ends of most tools are fashioned from one of three steels, carbon steel, low-alloy steel or high-speed steel. Carbon steel is a mixture of iron and carbon; low-alloy steel also contains small amounts of alloying elements such as molybdenum or tungsten.
Both metals are used in hand tools, such as hammers, chisels and socket spanners, which generate little heat in use. High-speed steel, which contains relatively high percentages of molybdenum or tungsten, can withstand the heat of friction generated in a power tool by drilling, sawing or routing.
The cutting blades of the most expensive power tools are made of tungsten carbide, not a steel at all, but fine particles of a mixture of tungsten and carbon bonded at high temperature.
Choosing Quality Tools
When it comes to choosing tools, let the job pick them for you. In this way, you buy only the tools you need, when you need them. If you own only a few tools, or if they are of poor quality, the first project you tackle may require extensive purchases.
But the second job, particularly if it is similar to the first, will mean the addition of only a few more tools, and eventually a complete set of good tools will have all but assembled itself.
Buying tools to match the job also helps to determine whether you will need hand tools, electrically powered models, or both. Hand tools are adequate for most small projects and have obvious advantages if you are working outdoors far from electrical outlets.
However, a power tool is an asset where the amount of work to be done or the precision required justifies its price. The electric drill is so inexpensive and so useful for boring holes that a hand drill is all but superfluous. (Many recent models are battery powered, so they can be used in places remote from a power source.)
Also, anyone who has ever tried to carve long housings in cabinet work with a mallet and chisel will recognize a high-speed router as an irresistible work-saver. And a compact circular saw can cut paneling for a large room in just a few hours; the job might take days with a crosscut saw.
Such, a buy-as-you-go philosophy is obviously inappropriate for some items. It makes more sense to take home a complete set of spanners or bits for a drill, for example, than to buy them separately. They are always less expensive in sets, and buying them all at once will avoid a trek to the hardware shop each time you want to drill a hole of a different diameter or tighten a nut of another size. It is also usually cheaper to purchase screwdrivers in sets, and you also find that most of them will be used at one time or another.
Some projects call for specialized tools that are not really part of a basic home tool kit. Included in this category are such items as long cramps for squeezing joints together while glue is setting, industrial-sized sanders and polishers for finishing floors, concrete mixers and smoothing tools for laying a patio.
Many of these tools, especially expensive ones that are going to be used only once or twice, can be hired. Remember to bear in mind, however, that the hire fees can quickly add up to the purchase price of a tool if it is needed frequently or for a long period of time.
The Case for Quality Tools
Do not be tempted by cheap tools. Shoddy screwdrivers and hammers will break, causing injury and damaging the work. A cold chisel stamped out of metal that is too soft cannot do the jobs it is specially designed for. Tools should help to minimize errors, not create them; an unsquare square, or any other such inaccuracy in a tool, will make a home project an exercise in futility and frustration even for the most skilled carpenter.
High-quality tools are sold at hardware shops, D.I.Y. centers, online and many department stores for reasonable prices altogether, the tools listed in this guide cost no more than, say, a good-quality hi-fi system, and, because they last for years, they are the only true bargains in tools. On the other hand, it is rarely necessary to own the most expensive lines of tools; usually they offer only subtle improvements in balance and workmanship.
For the home handyman, these qualities may not justify the extra cost.
When you are selecting a tool for purchase, look for the name of a reputable manufacturer. Study online tool reviews to find out how they perform. Examine each tool review to confirm that it incorporates as many as possible of the features that are recommended in this guide.
Before settling on a brand or model, read the terms of the manufacturer’s guarantee. Most hand tools carry unconditional guarantees against faulty workmanship or materials. You should expect power tools to be guaranteed for at least a full year, and parts should be easy to replace so that the device will be inexpensive to repair.
It is advisable to shop around for the best price. High-quality tools are widely discounted and frequently to be found in sales. Always choose double-insulated power tools; their shockproof plastic housings will relieve you of any concern about whether electrical outlets, and the tool itself, are properly earthed. We always try to find the best available prices for tools that we review.
It is essential to use the right tool for the job. The wrong tool often makes it impossible to achieve professional looking results. A good tool used incorrectly can be ruined, voiding its guarantee. Remember that tools should do most of the work for you; they become inefficient and difficult to control when too much force is applied.
Swing a hammer so that the weight of the head, not your muscle, drives the nail.
Saw without excessive pressure; if the saw is as sharp as it should be, it will cut quickly enough and hold to a straight line.
Excessive force used with power tools can overheat motors and scatter dangerous fragments of blades and bits.
Work Safely With Tools
In addition to a light touch, other precautions are necessary to prevent accidents.
Keep an orderly work area, free of clutter.
Wear safety gear to protect your eyes from flying debris and your ears and nose from the din and dust of power tools.
Follow all the instructions that come with a power tool, and keep them for future reference.
Whenever possible, avoid using electrical tools in damp areas, even if they are double insulated or earthed.
Wear tight fitting clothing, tie back long hair and remove all jewellery, including rings and watches, that might be caught in the tool as you work.
Use cramps or a vice to lock work pieces firmly. On drill stands, small objects can be secured with blocks of wood bolted through the slots in the stand’s base or table.
Remember to disconnect power tools before changing blades or bits, and keep all adjustment nuts tight.
Caring For Your Tools
Tools function safely and reliably if they are properly looked after. Hang up tools instead of dumping them into a toolbox where they will be hard to find and subject to damage. Keep tools clean and free from rust.
Wipe them after use and then apply a coat of light oil to the metal to prevent oxidation. (However, do not oil hammers, files or spanner handles: when slippery, hammers can glance off nail heads, files will not cut and spanner handles can slip from your grip.)
If you’re using a chainsaw in the garden, you may like to check out our safety tips here.
Metal that has rusted slightly from humidity or condensation can be restored with fine steel wool and paraffin. Turpentine is an excellent solvent for removing wood resin from saw blades and other metal surfaces.
Tool Storage
It is always a good idea to protect your investment in your toolkit by having proper storage available. This can be in the form of cupboards, drawers or special toolboxes and tool carriers. Several such useful items come in the form of tool backpacks and portable tool boxes. We would recommend making use of these, particularly if you’re going to need to move around from job to job.
Keep Tools Sharp.
You can renew the edges of plane cutters and chisels yourself. However, most saw blades, because of their compound bevels, and all drill and router bits require special sharpening tools and techniques that are available from professionals.
To sharpen a chisel or plane, hold the blade so the bevel is flat against an oil-stone coated with light oil. Rub the blade against the stone at the correct bevel angle until a thin curl of metal appears along the blade’s edge. Turn the blade over, lay it flat on the stone and rub until the curl disappears. Turn the blade over again and, holding it at a slightly steeper angle than the bevel, give it a few strokes on the stone to hone the cutting edge.
Power tools, because of their electric motors, require special care. They must be regularly lubricated and cleared of sawdust; this can clog the vents in the motor housing and hinder the movement of a circular saw’s safety guard.
Power cables must be protected from oil and solvent, and coiled loosely for storage to prevent damage to the inner wires. Never carry a tool by its cable; the cable can be pulled loose or damaged. Internal electrical contacts, called brushes and usually accessible through external screw caps, must be checked frequently and replaced when worn. The recent developments in brushless motor technology is gradually making this a thing of the past.
All these details may sound like a lot of bother; but good tool habits, if cultivated from the outset, soon become second nature. Shown consideration, the tool kit recommended here will give years of dependable service.
Measurers and Markers
Steel tape measure.
Flexible and retractable, it can measure curved and straight distances.
A very popular size is one that’s 25 feet long with an inch wide blade. Most high-quality measures have a replaceable tape with a protective plastic coating, a lock that controls retraction and a belt hook.
Spirit level.
A device for determining whether a surface is level or plumb. A general-purpose level should be no less than 24″ long and made of metal so that it will not warp. It should contain indicators, called vials, for checking both horizontals and verticals. Plastic vials are superior to glass ones; they are almost unbreakable, and can be easily removed for replacement. An added convenience is a window located in an edge over the centre vial. Handle a level carefully; dropping it can impair its accuracy.
Folding rule.
Handy for determining vertical distances and measuring across wide spaces. It should be made of 1/8″ hardwood for greatest rigidity, its segments joined with riveted hinges to prevent slipping, and its markings deeply etched and coated with plastic for long wear. Metal scuff plates on many rules protect the markings when the rule is opened or closed.
Steel square.
Used for marking and checking square cuts, and for drawing parallel or vertical lines on large projects. The square’s body (long arm) and tongue (short arm) are marked in 1/16th inch increments running outwards from the right angle. Many squares are also marked with various tables used by professional carpenters to set out staircases and rafters.
Combination square.
A multi-purpose tool for marking and checking not only square corners, but 45 degree mitres as well. It also serves as a depth gauge, a level for short spans and a precision one foot rule. The rule should be grooved so that the cast-iron head containing the level can be locked in place by a hand screw anywhere along the rule. The heads of many squares include a scriber (small awl) for marking and are cast with a protective frame for the level.
Sliding bevel.
Records and transfers bevels and angles other than 90 degrees and 45 degrees. To duplicate angles called for in plans or blueprints, a protractor is used as a guide to set the blade of the sliding bevel. To match an existing bevel, the tool can simply be adjusted to fit the angle. The wing nut on the handle is tightened to secure the blade in the measured position.
Awl.
A steel scriber for marking lines on metal or wood and for starting drill holes in wood to stop the drill wandering. Flat sides on the handle prevent the awl from rolling on work surfaces. A bradawl is a similar tool with a sharp, bevelled tip which, twisted into wood, pushes the fibres apart to make a clearance for a screw.
Chalk line.
Marks long, straight lines. A 50 or a 100 foot spool of string fits inside a case that is filled with chalk dust. Stretched tautly between two points, then lifted an inch or so, and snapped against a surface, the string leaves a straight, chalky mark. Suspended from a nail, the chalk line acts as a plumb bob for marking vertical lines. Worn strings can be replaced; chalk dust can be replenished after removing a cap at the bottom of the case.
Centre punch.
Indents metal to provide a starting point for drill holes. Like an awl hole in wood, a centre-punch dent keeps the drill on centre as it bites into the metal. Centre punches should be made of hardened steel, which will withstand hammering and dulling of the point. The squared end of the punch keeps it from rolling.
Clamps
Woodworking vice.
Grips work for sawing, sanding, planing or drilling. The best type of vice has cast-iron jaws to which wooden (or plastic) faces can easily be attached by means of pre-drilled holes. The faces, which prevent the vice from marring the work, should be replaced when they become gouged, and set aside when the vice is used to grip metal. The vice is shaped to hold work vertically or horizontally and should open at least 2 1/2 inches. The virtue of the clamp-on feature is that the vice can be transferred from a workbench to any sturdy support, such as a table or a counter-top.
G-cramp.
Frequently used in pairs to hold pieces of work together for gluing, sawing or drilling. There are G-cramps that open as wide as 12 inches; one pair of 6 inch cramps, made of cast iron or aluminium, is adequate for most tool kits. The head on the screw should swivel freely so that the cramp will grip surfaces that are not quite parallel; the swivel also prevents the cramp from “walking” as it is tightened.
Spring cramp.
A fast-action cramp on the lines of a clothes peg for holding freshly glued wooden pieces together, and for other light-duty tasks such as mating pieces to be soldered or positioning a cutting guide. Spring cramps come in sizes up to 8 inches mm long with jaws that open 2 1/2 inches or more. A pair of the largest cramps, with tips and handles sheathed in plastic, is ideal for all but the most delicate applications.
Hand Saws
Crosscut saw.
For cutting across the grain, the most frequent operation in woodworking. The blade of a general-purpose crosscut saw should be 22 or 24 inches long, made of springy, tempered steel and attached to the replaceable handle with four or more fasteners.
A blade with eight teeth per inch (expressed as TPI), is fine enough to leave a clean edge, yet coarse enough for fast cutting and ripping, or sawing along the grain. (When buying this type, specify “an eight-point saw”.)
The blade of a high-quality saw is taper-ground to be thicker at the toothed edge than at the back. Its precision teeth are double bevelled and alternatively bent, or set, to the sides of the blade to help clear the cut of sawdust and to reduce friction by making the cut slightly wider than the saw blade.
A crosscut saw needs precision sharpening to maintain the correct set whenever the heavily used teeth in the middle feel duller to the touch than those at the ends; sharpening is best done by a professional.
Tenon saw and mitre box.
A specialized crosscut saw that makes extra-smooth cuts and tight-fitting joints, particularly 45 degree mitres. A tenon saw should have 13 teeth per inch and a blade, usually 14″ long, which is kept rigid for perfectly straight cuts by a spine along the back. The mitre box holds the tenon saw vertical and locks it at the chosen mitre angle while the cut is made. A mitre box should have adjusting devices for accurately setting a variety of mitre angles, regulating the depth of the saw cut and accommodating saws of different thicknesses. Holes in the base make it easy to secure the box to a workbench with bolts or screws.
Pad or keyhole saw.
Makes either straight or curved cutouts for such purposes as mounting an electrical outlet in a wall or allowing the passage of pipes through a floor. The handle of the saw accommodates a variety of 10 to 16 inch crosscut-ground blades. Each blade is locked in place on the handle with a wing nut. The blades range from eight teeth per inch for plywood to 24 for cutting through plastic. When the handle is fitted with a shorter, narrower blade, the saw is capable of cutting sharper curves.
Hacksaw.
For cutting metal. The saw’s steel frame adjusts to accept 8 to 12 inch blades mounted between two lugs and tensioned by means of a wing nut. The frame must be rigid to keep the blade from flexing. Common blades would be 24 teeth per inch blades for general use, coarser ones for thick or soft metals, and finer ones for thin or hard materials. There are also round blades, known as saw files or rod saws, for sawing glass, ceramics and marble, and molybdenum steel blades which, though more brittle, last four to six times as long as ordinary carbon-steel blades.
Coping saw.
Cuts intricate patterns in wood or metal. Its narrow, ribbon-like blade is tensioned between two lugs by a screw handle and a stiff metal frame. The blade can be rotated through 360 degrees, for negotiating tight corners, or reversed in the frame so that it cuts on the pull stroke for optimum accuracy. There is a variety of blades for diverse materials.
Power Saws
Jigsaw.
A versatile tool capable of cross-cutting, ripping, sawing curves, bevelling and starting a cut in the middle of a panel. Interchangeable blades, so inexpensive that they are usually replaced rather than sharpened, enable the jigsaw to cut a wide variety of materials, ranging from wood and metal to wallboard and ceramic tiles. For work around the home, a jigsaw (sometimes called a sabre saw) should have at least a 250 watt, variable-speed motor capable of low speeds for cutting hard materials, and high speeds, up to 3,500 strokes per minute, for soft materials. A blade stroke of 3/4″ is sufficient to sever 1 1/2″ of wood or 1/8″ of malleable steel. Choose a jigsaw that cuts bevels and also blows sawdust from the cutting line. The saw should feel well balanced and should not vibrate excessively when cutting.
Types of blade.
Wood-cutting blades, metal-cutting blades and special-purpose blades are available. Choose the shortest blade that will do the job; with an 3/4″ stroke jigsaw, a blade over 4″ long may overtax the motor.
Blades for wood, made of high-carbon steel, have as few as six teeth per inch for fast, coarse cutting, and as many as 14 teeth per inch for fine work. Most blades have teeth bent to alternate sides, but a taper-ground blade has no set to its teeth and makes splinter-free cuts in plywood. A narrow blade, called a scroll blade, cuts sharp curves. Metal-cutting blades, with between 12 and 32 teeth per inch, are made of high-speed steel for cutting metals and plastic laminates. Special-purpose blades include a knife-edge for trimming materials such as linoleum or insulation, and a blade edged with chips of tungsten carbide, which cuts hard metals and ceramics and saws hardwood so smooth that it needs little or no sanding.
Circular Saw.
A heavy-duty tool with interchangeable blades for sawing large numbers of long crosscuts, rips and bevels; also makes housings. The preferred model for a home tool kit should have a 7″ blade, to permit cutting through 2″ boards at a 45 degree angle—and a motor of at least 1,000 watts.
A well-balanced saw with a wobble-free blade shaft (arbor) makes the straightest cuts. Most saws have adjustments for the depth and angle of cut. A circular saw is a potentially dangerous tool, and should always incorporate such safety features as a fixed upper blade guard and a lower blade guard that springs into position when a cut is finished, an automatic clutch that helps to eliminate kickback if the blade should jam, and a splitting wedge that prevents the cut from closing up and catching the blade.
Some saws are equipped with an electronic brake that stops the blade the moment the saw is turned off. Other desirable features are sealed bearings that do not require any lubrication, an arbor lock to simplify changing the blades and a discharge chute to direct sawdust away from the work.
Mini Circular Saw
These very handy tools are a relatively recent development, and as people have found them to be so useful, many manufacturers have added them to their range of tools. A compact mini circular saw can be used for a wide range of intricate work, and should be considered a must have for many tradesmen nowadays.
Types of blade.
A combination blade, a crosscut blade and a fine-tooth blade are an adequate complement for most home sawing. Made of tempered steel, these blades have teeth set to the sides like hand saws. Some blades are taper-ground to reduce friction and some have specially tempered teeth that stay sharp longer.
A combination blade is supplied with most circular saws. With its few coarse teeth 24 in most cases, it is used both for ripping and crosscutting where the edge appearance is unimportant. The finer, crosscut blade, with almost twice as many teeth, causes less splintering and is better for making mitres. A fine-tooth blade can have as many as 202 teeth, specially ground to minimize splintering the layers in plywood. These blades should be professionally sharpened.
Utility Scissors.
For cutting cloth-backed tapes, making paper patterns and countless other tasks. An ideal model has offset handles, which facilitates cutting material on a work table. The carbon-steel blades are drop-forged and curved towards each other to shear without jamming.
Wire Stripper.
Removes insulation from electrical wiring. They can have notches for wires ranging in diameter from 20 AWG to 10 AWG. Cutting edges inside the notches sever the insulation, but they stop short of the wire, allowing the insulation to be pulled away. These strippers normallyincorporate a wire cutter.
Glass cutter.
Scores glass so that it can be snapped along a predetermined line. The precision-sharpened wheel at the tip draws a fine scratch that weakens the material so it can be broken along the score. A wheel of tungsten steel is adequate for occasional use, but for extensive cutting, a harder wheel, made of more expensive tungsten carbide, stays sharp longer. While a sharp wheel is essential for cutting thin window glass, a slightly dull wheel is better for thick plate glass. The notches at one end of the cutter are effective for breaking off small pieces; the ball at the other end is used to tap the underside of the score before breaking off a wider piece.
Tin Snips.
A device for cutting sheet metal. For easier handling, a compound lever action, known as Aviation snips, is supplemented by spring-loaded handles covered with comfortable plastic grips. The jaws should be drop-forged for toughness and serrated to prevent slipping. A safety catch keeps jaws and handles closed when the snips are put away. For general use, select a pair of medium-duty, straight-cutting tin snips rather than snips designed specially for cuts to the right or left.
Chisels
Wood Chisels.
Cutting tools for shaping, carving and trimming. They are particularly suitable for moving small amounts of wood in tight spaces inaccessible to other tools. Two chisels—1/4″ wide for fine details and 3/4″ wide for bigger jobs—are a minimum for a tool kit. To hold a sharp edge, chisel blades are made of hardened steel. Nevertheless, they require regular honing on an oilstone; sharpening must be carefully done to avoid altering the bevel of the cutting edge. If the handle is made entirely of wood or plastic, it should be driven by a mallet only. If it has a metal cap, it can be driven by a hammer.
Cold Chisel.
Cuts metal rods, bolts and rivets, severs light chain and chips away masonry. A cold chisel is a hexagonal rod of tool steel, bevelled to a cutting edge – or bit – at one end and tempered for hardness. Designed to be’ struck with a hammer, cold chisels come in several shapes; a 1/2″ wide flat-tipped chisel is best for most projects around the house. Cold chisels have a few extra features, but vinyl grips on some models help to absorb hand-stinging vibrations. If the head of the chisel should mushroom under constant hammering, it must be reground to its original shape; otherwise, dangerous splinters may break off.
High-speed Router.
Machines wood for tight-fitting joints, and cuts intricate patterns and contours. A router has a high-speed motor— 18,000 to 28,000 rpm—mounted vertically on a two-handled base. A chuck on the motor shaft secures interchangeable bits. Cut depth is altered by raising and lowering the motor with an adjustment ring on the housing. For home use, a router should have about a 500 watt motor. Some routers, incorporate such safety features as a plastic chip deflector and a quick-stop switch in one handle. Useful features of good routers include permanently lubricated bearings, a depth scale on the housing, a built-in work light for better vision and a base faced with plastic to prevent marring surfaces of the wood.
Jointing bits.
A double-fluted bit and a rebate bit, both of which have vertical cutting edges—or flutes—are the only ones needed to make most joints. The double-fluted bit makes housings, mortises and laps. For accurate routing, it must be guided along boards clamped to the workpiece. The rebate bit has a polished shaft extension – a pilot tip – to ensure uniform width by guiding the bit along the edge of the board being notched.
Finishing and shaping bits.
The rounding-over bit shapes edges of boards into professional-looking, rounded corners. The flush trimmer is used primarily to remove overhanging edges of wood and plastic counter-topping after it is glued to a plywood base. Both bits are pilot tipped, but the flush trimmer rotates inside a ball bearing that will not mar finished surfaces. The flutes of the flush trimmer are tipped with tungsten carbide to withstand the abrasiveness of plastic laminates, and rarely need sharpening. The flutes of the rounding-over bit and the jointing bits, made of less expensive heat-tempered steel, dull more quickly. Both types are best sharpened by a profes